Nordhoff Peak the Easy Way - Howard Creek Trail

Nordhoff Peak from Howard Creek Trail-Nordhoff Ridge Road Junction

Looking at Tom Harrison's map of the Sespe, there are basically three established routes to the summit of Nordhoff Peak: the Pratt Trail, Gridley Canyon, and Howard Creek. The first two options begin low in the Ojai Valley and ascend the hot south side of the Nordhoff Ridge. The third option, Howard Creek, begins higher up (at roughly 3,500 feet) in Rose Valley and climbs the cooler north side of the ridge. This latter route is the shortest and most direct established path to the summit of Nordhoff Peak.

The trailhead for the Howard Creek Trail is located on the right (south) side of Rose Valley Road about 0.4 mile beyond the junction with Highway 33. The route begins on a gated fire road from which a foot-path subsequently branches left (east) approximately 0.2 from the obvious parking area. Although I had passed this trailhead numerous times on my way to Piedra Blanca, I had never stopped to explore it so Sunday I decided to give it a go.

Typical Trail Conditions on the North Side of Point 4677

Pond at Rancho Grande in Lower Howard Creek Canyon

Thorn Point and Piedra Blanca from the Howard Creek Trail

Based upon my past experiences on the south side of the Nordhoff Ridge, I was expecting Howard Creek to be a bit of a slog. But I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the trail was well defined, easy to follow, and quite gentle (dare I say "easy?"). That last conclusion is probably a bit of an over-statement, but if a 50-something, desk-bound guy with a paunch can cover the 2.8 miles and 1,000 feet of gain from trailhead to ridgeline in an hour and fifteen (with stops along the way to smell the flowers), you youngsters ought to be able to blaze this trail in under an hour.

Speaking of flowers, I had thought spring had already sprung and the wildflowers had already done their thing. Not so. There were still plenty of active blooms on the north side of Nordhoff Ridge, including the spectacular Matilija Poppy which is currently in full display mode. Other flora is also exploding with shaggy exuberance onto and across the trail in places. But there is a dark side to this orgiastic blooming madness, a menace unseen within the creases and crevices of the foliage that will not be discovered until you get back to the trailhead and strip off shirt and socks: ticks. Despite wearing a long shirt, gloves, and high socks, I still managed to pick up two of the little bastards that may have given me Lyme Disease.

Beautiful and Delicate Matilija Poppy

Another Matilija Poppy

 

Unknown Yellow Beauties. These were everywhere.

Butterflies Getting it On (or battling, I couldn't tell to be honest)

Yucca About to Bust Out in Bloom

Invasive Yet Amazingly Pretty Thistle

The name of the trail is a bit of a misnomer in that it doesn't really ascend Howard Creek proper, at least not initially. Instead, the trail begins in the drainage immediately west of Howard Creek and then tacks in a generally southeast direction, crossing an unnamed (and dry) creek before contouring around a ridgeline and into the upper reaches of the Howard Creek drainage. The lower reaches of the trail initially pass through the scrub and sandstone which is typical of the area before beginning the ascent of the shaded north side of Point 4677. The upper portion of the trail which climbs due south to a low spot along the Nordhoff Ridge, is more exposed (read, less shady) and is thus a little warmer (and buggier).

The trail ultimately intersects with the Nordhoff Ridge fire road at a spot along the ridgeline that is not the pinnacle of back-country scenery. There are no views north into the Sespe from this location and the views south toward thee Ojai Valley and beyond are just average. Those views get appreciably better as you work your way west along the Nordhoff Ridge Road toward Nordhoff Peak a little over 2 miles distant. The trade-off is that you must first descend approximately 700 feet to Gridley Saddle (the Gridley Trail intersects the ridgeline from the south here) before reclaiming those same lost feet as you climb out of the saddle and up to the abandoned fire lookout that sits stop Nordhoff Peak's summit. You must repeat this same elevation loss-gain scenario on your way out which enhances the overall challenge of this hike.

View South from Trail Junction with Nordhoff Peak Fire Road

View Into Gridley Canyon. Note the Gridley Canyon Trail in the Foreground

The Nordhoff Peak Abandoned Fire Lookout from the Nordhoff Ridge Fire Road

Once atop Nordhoff Peak, you can savor the expansive 360 degree views and cool breezes from the platform of the abandoned fire lookout tower. The day I was there, I had the run of the place. Beneath the tower is a fire-ring and picnic table if you're inclined to spend the night and are appropriately provisioned. I imagine the views from the summit into the Ojai Valley on a cloudless night are quite special.

So there you have it. Nordhoff Peak done easy. Approximately 10.5 miles round-trip with just over 3,000 of total gain.

The Topatopa Bluffs from Nordhoff Peak

Anacapa Island in the Santa Barbara Channel

 

Lake Casitas from Nordhoff Peak

Pine Mountain from Nordhoff Peak

View North Toward the Pine Mountain Ridge and the Sespe Wilderness

 

Rose Valley Falls

It's been a long time since there was enough water in the Los Padres to cause the Rose Valley Falls to be anything other than a dry cliff face, but the rains this weekend changed all that, at least temporarily. So I made a dash up the Maricopa Highway to Rose Valley on Sunday afternoon to scope things out before the multi-year drought currently gripping California reclaims its dominance. 

Trail Leading to Lower Rose Valley Falls



Moss and Lichen Grow Thick on the Trees Here

Creek Running Adjacent to the Rose Valley Falls Trail

There are two sets of falls at Rose Valley: a lower fall and an upper fall. The falls are reputed to be the highest in the entire Los Padres. Both are accessed by a short footpath that tracks south from the back of the Rose Valley Campground. The trail crosses the stream twice before gently ascending to the lower falls through a dense and gorgeous forest canopy. The day I visited, water music played in the stream and the forest was lush, cool, green, and drippy.

Stream Below the Falls

Falls Below the Falls

The formal trail terminates at the base of the lower falls. From there, you can continue to the upper falls by climbing the steep hillside using an obvious use "trail" to the left of the lower falls. The ascent involves a steep Class 3 scramble over loose dirt, rock, and roots to a vantage point high above the lower falls where views of the Rose Valley open up. The day I went the hillside was wet and the rocks were extremely slippery making the climb somewhat sketchy. The down-climb was downright dangerous. Given the fact I was solo, I shouldn't have attempted it. And at the end of the day, the upper falls weren't even flowing so there was limited reward for the risk taken.

Lower Rose Valley Falls

Water Flowing Over the Lower Falls

A Tangle of Tree Roots

Back at the campground, I spoke with a lady who had spent the previous night at the campground. In the past, Rose Valley had a reputation for being the Monte Cristo of the Los Padres and I was curious about whether times had changed. They haven't. The camper told me that despite the pouring rain, about 20 twenty-something young men spent the entire night in the campsite adjacent to her drinking by the fire and puking in the bathrooms. Remnants of their night of debauchery, including an abandoned tent frame and smoldering fire, was still evident as I left the campground. I guess that means Rose Valley is still in my no-camp zone.

Upper Rose Valley Falls

Ancillary Upper Falls

Ancillary Upper Falls

View of Rose Valley from Upper Falls

Back at the Lower Falls

Lower Rose Valley Falls

Lower Rose Valley Falls

Lower Rose Valley Falls

Foliage in the Fall Mist

Lower Falls Greenery

On my way out, the sun finally burst through the clouds allowing for unobstructed views of Piedra Blanca to the north and the Maricopa Highway as it winds its way south toward Ojai.

Piedra Blanca Formation

Piedra Blanca Close Up

Clouds Creeping Up the Maricopa Highway